Author Archives: august

BASIC FRIED POTATOES FILLING

English chips, pommes frites, frittos, cottage fries, shoestrings ˆ it’s hard to imagine anything could improve on simple fried potatoes, whatever the national cut. But there is something better-fried potato tacos. In a taco, that mound of fried potatoes doesn’t lie on a cold plate or in a limp piece of paper. It reposes in an edible, hot, soft or crisp tortilla. Ketchup gives way to Salsa and any number of other toppings, and fried potatoes take on elements of the ecstatic. Be warned: Once you have a taste, you’ll want them for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Serves 4 to 6
Takes 20 to 40 minutes

  • 1/2 cup peanut oil
  • 3 pounds red- or white-skinned potatoes, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  • 1 medium onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice
  • Salt, to taste
  • 18 corn or 12 flour tortillas, warmed or crisped just before serving
    TOPPINGS
    “Fresh Tomato Salsa”, “Salsa Verde”, “Ranchero Sauce”, or “Ancho Chili Sauce”

  • 4 cups shredded lettuce
  • 2 cups sour cream
    1. Divide the oil between 2 large frying pans and set over medium-high heat until the oil begins to smoke. (Or use I skillet and fry the potatoes in 2 rounds.) Add the potatoes and onions and stir to coat with the oil. Pat the potatoes into an even layer and cook for 10 minutes. Turn the potatoes over and pat into a
    VARIATIONS
    FOR THE TOPPINGS

  • Along with one of the salsas
    and perhaps some cheese,
    add: Deviled Peanuts and
    Coconut, Dressed Cilantro,
    Pan-Grilled Scallions,
    Breaded Chili Strips, and
    Well-Filled Guacamole.
    FOR THE SALSAS

  • Try: “Tomato, Pumpkin Seed, and Scallion Salsa”, “Orange-Onion Salsa”, “Roasted Garlic, Tomato, and Anchovy Sauce”; “Leek, Feta, and Sour Cream Salsa”.
    FOR THE FILLINGS

  • Almost every other vegetable goes with potatoes.
  • Reduce the amount of potatoes to 2 pounds (about 4 cups diced) and add 2 cups coarsely chopped red and/or green bell peppers while frying the potatoes.
  • Reduce the amount of potatoes to 2 pounds (about 4 cups diced) and add 2 cups corn kernels in the last 5 minutes of frying.
  • Reduce the amount of potatoes to 2 pounds (about 4 cups diced) and add 2 cups plantains or green bananas, cut into 1/4-inch thick slices, during the last 10 minutes of frying.

    • POTATO AND ROQUEFORT MELT

    … WITH PEAR-LIME SALSA
    oder Kartoffel und Roquefort Schmelze
    This was part of augusts “the well filled buritto” menue, see also Flour Tortillas, PEAR-LIME SALSA, and STEWED FISH WITH TOMATO, SAFFRON, AND GARLIC SAUCE
    If you love blue cheese sprinkled on salads, stuffed in celery ribs, spread on crackers, or melted on burgers, this is the filling for you. You can top it deliciously with Pear-Lime Salsa, as we do here, or vary the topping with the more tropical Mango-Jalapeñio Salsa. We are particularly fond of Roquefort for this melt, but you can also use Gorgonzola, Danish Blue, or any other semisoft blue cheese.
    Serves 4 to 6
    Takes 20 to 40 minutes

  • 1 batch BASIC FRIED POTATOES FILLING
  • 12 ounces Roquefort cheese
  • 18 corn or 12 flour tortillas, warmed or crisped just before serving
    TOPPINGS

  • 4 cups shredded lettuce
  • Pear-Lime Salsa (page 51)
    1. Fry the potatoes as in the Basic Fried Potatoes recipe. Crumble the cheese and spread it over. Cover the pan and cook over medium heat until the cheese melts, 2 to 3 minutes.
    2. To assemble, spread about 1/3 cup of the potato-cheese mixture in the middle of a tortilla. Top with shredded lettuce and Pear-Lime Salsa. Fold and serve.
    VARIATIONS

  • A number of vegetables blend well with Roquefort cheese and can be added to the potatoes during the last 5 minutes of cooking. Try: Asparagus, trimmed and sliced into 1 -inch lengths; water-packed artichoke hearts, diced; mushrooms, especially shiitakes, chanterelles, and oyster mushrooms, sliced; yellow string beans, cut into 1/2-inch lengths; water chestnuts, sliced.
  • Several kinds of nuts also combine well with potatoes and Roquefort. Toast, chop, and add them to the potatoes for the last 5 minutes: pine nuts, macadamia nuts, pecans, and walnuts.
  • Vary the lettuce with some of the more lacy, fla vorful greens. Try: Arugula, chicory, and frisée.

    • STEWED FISH WITH TOMATO, SAFFRON, AND GARLIC SAUCE

    oder Fisheintopf mit Tomaten-, Saffran- und Knoblauch- Sauce
    This was part of augusts “the well filled buritto” menue, see also Flour Tortillas, PEAR-LIME SALSA and POTATO AND ROQUEFORT MELT.
    Fish, stewed and smothered in its own sauce, turns blander varieties, such as some of the rock cods, into rich, distinctive fillings.
    Serves 4 to 6
    Takes 20 to 40 minutes

  • 2 1/4 pounds meaty white fish fillets or chunks, such as
    snapper, cod, sea bass, halibut, cut 1/2- to 3/4-inch thick

  • 2 tablespoons fresh limejuice
    Salt

  • 3 pounds fresh tomatoes, coarsely chopped,
    juices reserved

  • 10 garlic cloves, cut into thin slivers
  • Large pinch of saffron threads or 112 teaspoon
    powdered saffron

  • cup chopped parsley leaves
  • 11/2 cups chicken stock or broth
  • 4 tablespoons (112 stick) butter
  • 18 corn or 12 flour tortillas, warmed or crisped
    just before serving

  • TOPPING: “Dressed Cilantro”, or 4 cups shredded lettuce
    1. Place the fish in a large nonreactive baking dish. Sprinkle the lime juice over it and salt lightly. Set aside while preparing the sauce.
    2. To make the sauce, divide the tomatoes, garlic, saffron, parsley, stock, butter, and 1/2 teaspoon salt between 2 large nonreactive skillets or stew pots. (Or use one pan, cook the fish in
    several rounds, and allow more time for reducing the sauce at the end.) Bring to a boil. Cook over medium heat until the tomatoes are soft but still hold their shape, about 10 minutes.
    3. Divide the fish fillets between the pans, keeping them in one layer. (Don’t overlap or stack them or they won’t cook evenly.) Simmer for 2 minutes. Turn and simmerjust until the fish begins to flake when prodded with a wooden spoon, about 2 minutes more.
    4. Break the fish fillets into bite-size pieces, removing any remaining bones.
    5. To assemble, spread about 1/3 cup of the fish in the middle of a tortilla. Spoon a few tablespoons of the sauce over the fish, top with Dressed Cilantro or lettuce. Fold and serve.
    FOR THE TOPPINGS

  • Basic Fried Potatoes make a hearty dish even more filling.
  • Crumbled feta or cotija cheese adds a pleasing sharp taste.
  • Sour cream smooths out the sauce.
  • Ancho Chili Sauce imparts an earthy depth to the stewing sauce.

    • PEAR-LIME SALSA

    oder Birnen-Limetten Salsa
    This was part of augusts “the well filled buritto” menue, see also Flour Tortillas, POTATO AND ROQUEFORT MELT, and STEWED FISH WITH TOMATO, SAFFRON, AND GARLIC SAUCE
    Makes 2 cups
    Takes less than 20 minutes

  • 2 medium shallots
  • 1 poblano chili pepper, stemmed
  • 2 medium pears
  • 2 tablespoons fresh limejuice
  • 1/2 teaspoon achiote powder or 3/8 teaspoon chili flakes
    1. Mince the shallots and chili pepper in a food processor or with a chef’s knife.
    2. Halve and core the pears. Cut the pears into small dice.
    3. In a bowl, mix together the shallots, chili pepper, pears, limejuice, and achiote powder. Serve right away. Pears are fragile and this salsa will not last overnight.
    TIP
     Delicate pears should be chopped by hand, not in a food processor.